[time-nuts] OT: Hewlett Packard paint codes

[Jack Hudler]

Yes that works on the base color (light green), but when it comes to
printing the graphics on the coated foil I need the RGB values, which they
don't even know what that is. 

Going to try a printer (they know what color is) and see if they use their
colorimeter to get the RGB values.

Thanks!

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On
Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 7:39 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT: Hewlett Packard paint codes

Hi Jack:

If you have a piece of equipment that has the desired color, just take it to

you local paint store (Kelly More, etc) where they should have a digital 
colorimeter.  They can then blend a paint that when dry will be the same.

Have Fun,

Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.precisionclock.com
http://www.prc68.com/I/WebCam2.shtml 24/7 Sky-Weather-Astronomy Cam

Jack Hudler wrote:
> Way off topic:
> 
>  
> 
> I know we have a few Ex-HP employee's here, so this is a long shot.
> 
> But I would like to know the what paint was used by HP and there color
> values or codes. I know they vary slightly from one lot/day/month/year to
> the next.
> 
> The reason I ask is, I'm completely redoing a couple pieces of my HP gear.

> 
> Managed to get a great match on the background, sort of an off white
> greenish tint (light puke pea green my wife calls it), but the darker one
> are eluding me and I suck at color matching. 
> 
>  
> 
> I'm replacing the panels by scanning in an image and then creating a whole
> new one in Photoshop.
> 
> I then paint a Hard-Temper Aluminum Foil .003" (McMaster Carr 9012K27)
with
> the background color (2 part urethane automotive paint).
> 
> Then I color sand (err remove all the imperfections) and cover the painted
> surface with inkAID (Clear Gloss Precoat II see www.inkaid.com).
> 
> Put it in my inkjet printer and viola! A new front panel!
> 
> I then cover the panel with a 2 part urethane clear (baked in the oven)
> which is then epoxied onto the old damaged one.
> 
> All that remains is to cut out the holes with sharp X-Acto knife and
> reassemble.
> 
>  
> 
> However, the whole process of matching colors from scanner to screen to
> inkjet (overlaid on a tinted background) really is total guess work
without
> a calibrated color source and colorimeter to verify the results. This is
the
> reason for my request.
> 
>  
> 
> All in all it's a pretty easy process! You don't have to use the two part
> urethane stuff, any oil based acrylic will do nicely. 
> 
> Like the two part stuff because it very very hard and durable! Cures fast
in
> an oven! Not to mention you can lay on quite a few coats and then flat
sand
> and polish to a mirror surface.
> 
> (Note: The two part urethanes need a respirator and a good spray booth)
> 
> The results are better than new. I even enlarge the text and numbers
> slightly for my aging eyes!
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Jack
> 
>  
> 
> Links: inkAID:  http://www.inkaid1.com/Products/Gloss%20II.html
> 
>            Foil: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk
>
<http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk&search=9012K27&resul
>
tsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012k27%26tab%3Dfind%26Fa
> stTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab>
>
&search=9012K27&resultsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012
> k27%26tab%3Dfind%26FastTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab
> 
>  
> 
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