[time-nuts] Tool Needed to Access my Timer Battery

Chuck Harris cfharris at erols.com
Wed Feb 16 16:38:15 UTC 2011


I think if we are going to use terminology, we should try to use it correctly.

The term ebauche, is very similar to the term engine block.  An ebauche is
an unfinished movement.  It typically has not been fitted with all of the
jewels, balance, etc..  In Switzerland, like in Detroit, there are numerous
companies, also known as Ebauche, that build the parts that many name brand
manufacturers assemble into a finished unit... be it an engine, or a watch.

Just as a Volkeswagen Beetle, and a Porsche 914 use the same engine block,
but finish it for different purposes, an ebauche movement may receive quite
a lot of hot-rodding depending on the OEM customer.  Some get their plates
dressed up with fine gilt lettering, Damasceening, extra jewels, and adjustments,
and others simply get stuffed into the watch case rough and unadorned.

The term calibre, is used two ways.  The first is to show the general size
of a movement, in lignes.  The second is to indicate the general layout, or
style of a movement.  Movements of the same calibre can often be substituted
for an original movement, even though they are made, and finished, differently
than the original.

Companies like Rolex have traditionally done all of the manufacturing of their
movements in house.  They do not use the Ebauche market as a source for any of
their parts.  Other companies, like TAG/Heuer use nothing but Ebauche parts.

Quartz movements as found in the typical Bling brands, are all ebauche.

Mechanical watch movements have suffered greatly from the rapid depression of
the prices of sophisticated electronics, and the rapid rise of labor costs.

It was once possible for a watchmaker to spend his days fixing watches, at
a reasonably cheap price, and still keep his wife and kids fed clothed,
and living in a decent home.

But even back then, technology brought us the "Dollar Watch" that was so
cheap that it was never meant to be fixed.  The start of the downfall of
the watchmaking profession.

Today, if a watchmaker charges $140 for a 3-4 hour service job, people complain
that it is too expensive.  And yet, they would also complain if they didn't get
more than $140 for 3-4 hours of their time.

-Chuck Harris

William H. Fite wrote:
> That estimate is probably about right.  It hasn't been quite that expensive
> for me but then I have a couple of Omegas; gave my Rolex to my nephew years
> ago.
>
> For your money, they remove the movement (or the calibre...or the ébauche et
> assortiments...depending on how horologically snooty you care to be.  They
> clean it, inspect it and replace worn parts, reassemble and lubricate.  They
> then test it for accuracy in their own lab.  If it passes house standards,
> they will send the movement (still out of the case at this point) to the
> Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres where it will be tested for a
> number of days, in a number of positions, at a number of temperatures.
> Assuming it passes, they put it back into the case, which has, in the
> meantime, been cleaned, repaired if needed, and buffed.  They then ship the
> watch back to you with a new warranty and a new COSC chronometer
> certification.
>
> Considering that the bottom end for a Rolex nowadays is on the order of $3K
> and even a lowly Omega Seamaster starts at about $1500, this fee does not
> seem excessive to me.
>
> Of course, if'n you don't care, just take it to your local Kay's.  After
> all, every kiss begins with Kay.  But understand that the kiss you get will
> be kissing your fine movement goodbye much before its time.
>
> But I wouldn't pay that to have a quartz watch overhauled.  That is the care
> you give to a fine mechanical calibre, not a crystal and a battery.  After
> all (shudder) it is quartz.  Quartz belongs on the bench, not on your
> wrist.  Some Rolex owners are ashamed to admit that Rolex even makes a
> quartz watch.  If I had a pricey quartz watch and it failed, I'd probably
> just have a new quartz movement from Seiko or whoever slapped into my
> expensive case and get on with my life.
>
> Those of you who no longer wear wrist watches and have some in your dresser
> drawers with mechanical movements, feel free to send them to me.  I'll sort
> out the wheat from the chaff.[?]
>
> Bill



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