[time-nuts] Tool Needed to Access my Timer Battery

Bob Camp lists at rtty.us
Wed Feb 16 17:32:38 UTC 2011


Hi

All of that sounds so simple. Unfortunately there are lots of little
details. Back a long time ago the very large outfit I worked for decided to
make quartz watch movements. It's just electronics. 

There were about five of us who did work on the watch electronics. I was
involved with the analog (stepper motor) design. They also had an LCD
design. To this day I prefer stepper motor versions of the quartz movement.
Likely that's designer bias. 

Lots of little details and you have to get them *all* right. They focused on
the timing side of it, got that right. There were a few reliability bumps,
got them straightened out quickly. Technically they were a fine little group
of gizmos. 

They missed what one might call the fashion side of it - bad move. Watch
cases come in two basic sizes. You don't make a movement that's to big for
the small case and to small for the big one - double bad move. They also got
caught making it all themselves - triple bad move. 

Net result was about a $100 mil loss (in 1970's dollars) and an exit from
the market / sale of the brand name.

Timing technology is not all of it.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces at febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces at febo.com] On
Behalf Of Chuck Harris
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 11:38 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Tool Needed to Access my Timer Battery

I think if we are going to use terminology, we should try to use it
correctly.

The term ebauche, is very similar to the term engine block.  An ebauche is
an unfinished movement.  It typically has not been fitted with all of the
jewels, balance, etc..  In Switzerland, like in Detroit, there are numerous
companies, also known as Ebauche, that build the parts that many name brand
manufacturers assemble into a finished unit... be it an engine, or a watch.

Just as a Volkeswagen Beetle, and a Porsche 914 use the same engine block,
but finish it for different purposes, an ebauche movement may receive quite
a lot of hot-rodding depending on the OEM customer.  Some get their plates
dressed up with fine gilt lettering, Damasceening, extra jewels, and
adjustments,
and others simply get stuffed into the watch case rough and unadorned.

The term calibre, is used two ways.  The first is to show the general size
of a movement, in lignes.  The second is to indicate the general layout, or
style of a movement.  Movements of the same calibre can often be substituted
for an original movement, even though they are made, and finished,
differently
than the original.

Companies like Rolex have traditionally done all of the manufacturing of
their
movements in house.  They do not use the Ebauche market as a source for any
of
their parts.  Other companies, like TAG/Heuer use nothing but Ebauche parts.

Quartz movements as found in the typical Bling brands, are all ebauche.

Mechanical watch movements have suffered greatly from the rapid depression
of
the prices of sophisticated electronics, and the rapid rise of labor costs.

It was once possible for a watchmaker to spend his days fixing watches, at
a reasonably cheap price, and still keep his wife and kids fed clothed,
and living in a decent home.

But even back then, technology brought us the "Dollar Watch" that was so
cheap that it was never meant to be fixed.  The start of the downfall of
the watchmaking profession.

Today, if a watchmaker charges $140 for a 3-4 hour service job, people
complain
that it is too expensive.  And yet, they would also complain if they didn't
get
more than $140 for 3-4 hours of their time.

-Chuck Harris

William H. Fite wrote:
> That estimate is probably about right.  It hasn't been quite that
expensive
> for me but then I have a couple of Omegas; gave my Rolex to my nephew
years
> ago.
>
> For your money, they remove the movement (or the calibre...or the ébauche
et
> assortiments...depending on how horologically snooty you care to be.  They
> clean it, inspect it and replace worn parts, reassemble and lubricate.
They
> then test it for accuracy in their own lab.  If it passes house standards,
> they will send the movement (still out of the case at this point) to the
> Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres where it will be tested for a
> number of days, in a number of positions, at a number of temperatures.
> Assuming it passes, they put it back into the case, which has, in the
> meantime, been cleaned, repaired if needed, and buffed.  They then ship
the
> watch back to you with a new warranty and a new COSC chronometer
> certification.
>
> Considering that the bottom end for a Rolex nowadays is on the order of
$3K
> and even a lowly Omega Seamaster starts at about $1500, this fee does not
> seem excessive to me.
>
> Of course, if'n you don't care, just take it to your local Kay's.  After
> all, every kiss begins with Kay.  But understand that the kiss you get
will
> be kissing your fine movement goodbye much before its time.
>
> But I wouldn't pay that to have a quartz watch overhauled.  That is the
care
> you give to a fine mechanical calibre, not a crystal and a battery.  After
> all (shudder) it is quartz.  Quartz belongs on the bench, not on your
> wrist.  Some Rolex owners are ashamed to admit that Rolex even makes a
> quartz watch.  If I had a pricey quartz watch and it failed, I'd probably
> just have a new quartz movement from Seiko or whoever slapped into my
> expensive case and get on with my life.
>
> Those of you who no longer wear wrist watches and have some in your
dresser
> drawers with mechanical movements, feel free to send them to me.  I'll
sort
> out the wheat from the chaff.[?]
>
> Bill

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