[time-nuts] 10811 Outer oven controller schematic

paul swed paulswedb at gmail.com
Wed Jul 31 09:37:50 EDT 2013


Paint remover turpentine
Gas = gasoline
Ovens all clean now of the goo.
But its still off frequency
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL


On Wed, Jul 31, 2013 at 7:15 AM, Rex <rexa at sonic.net> wrote:

> I suspect by gas he meant gasoline.
>
> I don't know about what paint remover he meant but I have another
> suggestion that might have worked. For cleaning label gunk off of used test
> equipment I have used automotive bug and tar remover. Seems to loosen up
> lots of gunk but not so strong it hurts the panel paint and lettering.
>
>
>
> On 7/31/2013 1:51 AM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
>
>> Paul,
>>
>> gas? What gas?
>>
>> what soft plastic paint remover?
>>
>> A little more specifics would help if someone is in the need.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Magnus
>>
>> On 20/07/13 23:22, paul swed wrote:
>>
>>> Hello to the group.
>>> As the various posts mention pulling the outer oven and taped wire off
>>> is a
>>> job. But thats done.
>>> The Osc is 45 Hz low hot and 200 Hz low cold. Bobs on target with his
>>> comment on what to expect. It does warm up and behave as you might expect
>>> but its all relative not exact even according to the 10811 service
>>> manual.
>>> So it could be off temperature. But very hard to say until I get a
>>> thermocouple in there.
>>> Will say the various rubbery stuff and shock absorbing stuff left one
>>> heck
>>> of a gooey mess.
>>> Oily sticky stuff.I tried oil, alcohol, turpentine, and finally gas. None
>>> really did anything. But what did was a soft plastic paint remover. That
>>> peeled the old tape and goo off very nicely.
>>> What was left was the true glue and that was removable by gas.
>>> It went from a gooey mess that stuck to everything to a pretty clean can.
>>> Next I used a small torch one of those small butane refillable units. Had
>>> it for years and never really had a use for it till now. I have started
>>> the
>>> process of opening the can. Thats not complete yet. But I cleaned enough
>>> goo off that when I heat things I don't have a smelly smoldering mess.
>>> Regards
>>> Paul
>>> WB8TSL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Bob Camp<lists at rtty.us> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Hi
>>>>
>>>> If a 10811 oven is simply not working, the output will be> 400 Hz off
>>>> frequency.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:48 PM, ed breya<eb at telight.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>  Paul,
>>>>>
>>>>> If the 10811 is that far off, are you sure the oven is working?  A few
>>>>>
>>>> years ago mine had a failure of a particular date code range of the
>>>> opamp
>>>> that controls the oven, that were prone to failure.at high temperature.
>>>> The symptom in the Z3801A was that the outer oven seemed bad - it did
>>>> not
>>>> turn on, but it was because it was waiting for the inner one to reach
>>>> nominal temperature, but it never did. Once you get it all apart,
>>>> replacement of the IC is no big deal, but what a PITA to get to it. I
>>>> vaguely recall posting the whole story on that website that has big
>>>> coverage of the Z3801A - I can't remember the name, since I haven't been
>>>> there in a while, but it should be easy to find. The website had all
>>>> kinds
>>>> of Z3801A info, including a nice writeup on how to take the oven apart,
>>>> which is where I started.
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Ed
>>>>>
>>>>>
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