[time-nuts] Lucent KS-24361, HP/Symmetricom Z3809A, Z3810A, Z3811A, Z3812...

[GandalfG8 at aol.com]

Hi Arthur
 
Thanks for your further comments, and certainly no need for the  "sorry".
 
It was your pioneering work that inspired recent efforts to  start with, 
and the confusion over the pin numbers that led Gotz to the, just  grounding 
pins 2 and 3, 2 link solution we have now.
 
Overall, I'd say, not a bad result:-)
 
Good luck with the 10 MHz conversion, I'll probably do that soon as well,  
after bringing out the 5 Mhz, but for now I'm just letting them cook whilst  
monitoring the 15MHz.
 
As has been previously commented, aside from the GPS module, there seems to 
 be very little difference between the Ref-0 and Ref-1 modules, and I'm  
quite tempted to make up my own patch lead, whip out the GPS module from one  
of my Ref-1 units, and then couple the two Ref-1s together to see how they  
cope with that:-)
 
Regards
 
Nigel
GM8PZR
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 03/11/2014 17:13:15 GMT Standard Time,  
golgarfrincham at gmail.com writes:

GandalfG8 at aol.com GandalfG8 at aol.com Sun Nov 2 09:08:30 EST  2014 
wrote:

"Ooh err, whoops, and oh dear !!

Arthur, I've only  just had a chance to look at your latest photos, and
unless I've really got  my wires crossed, if you'll pardon the
expression:-),
your links on J5  are not shown on pins 2, 10, 12, and 15,  but on pins 4,
6,
11, and  13."
+++++++++++++++++++++

Darn-I'm glad someone was paying more  attention than I was when I wrote
that years ago. Apparently when I was  documenting what modifications I
had made I just picked up a 15 pin D plug  shell to get the numbers
instead of looking at the obvious numbers on the  RFTG socket connector
and those connectors being mirror images have the  numbers reversed. I
was out geocaching yesterday and didn't catch up on the  new posts until
this morning so I'm a little late in responding. I also  checked to see
if I had any other scribbles on the changes I made and found  this: "If
pin 2 is held low the 'ON' LED will flash. A pulse low will turn  it on.
The RC timer holds pin 2 low to flash for about 6 seconds so you  can
see it actually happens then pin 2 returns high and the 'ON' LED  stays
on solid."

So apparently some of the parts I added were to  just make the light look
like they were working correctly (can you spell  OCD?) and may not be
necessary. As I originally said, this was a hack and I  wanted others to
duplicate what I had done to see if any of it made sense  to them. At
least it appears that by adding the circuit I came up with  and/or adding
jumpers you can get the RFTG-u REF 1 unit to work without the  slave unit.
I just ordered another RFTG-u REF 1 and will see if I can  modify that and
get it to output 10Mhz instead of 5Mhz like my original  unit.

Sorry about the screw up on the  numbers.

-Arthur
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